Adler 189A Adlermatic Zig-Zag

There are times when there is a particular model a collector has wanted for years and after spending those years looking high and low (price and location), that collector finally realizes that in order to acquire it, some fairly serious cash will need to be spent or a refurbishment will be necessary.

That collector is myself and the machine is the Adler 189A Adlermatic.  I knew I had to have one the first moment I spied a dark, grainy picture of its gorgeous green self.  The rounded, bulbous shapes, the beautiful levers with red increments and numbers, the cam door that slides up and open, the nose plate that opens clam-shell style toward the left, the Pfaff 130-like rear access plate, the steel cams, the belt cover, the speed and strength, the ungodly smoothness -- it was a heady mix for a still-learning collector and perhaps these shapes and features imprinted my impressionable mind so deeply that I couldn't let go.  And now I finally have one.  Well, almost.

I decided not to spend a fortune and bought a 'For Parts or Repair' example.  It's missing the motor.  (Yes, you read that correctly.  I bought an electric, heavy-duty sewing machine with its motor missing.)  It's missing the thread tension assembly (except the post, check spring, etc.).  The thread take-up lever has been broken right off at the face plate.  No cord, no controller.  The cord that it has was a seller attempt and he actually wired the lamp correctly, so that works.  The hand wheel turns very smoothly and the knobs and levers all appear to be working as intended, although I need access to a manual to be sure.  This is not a simple machine.  No cams, no presser feet, no bobbin case (although the Pfaff 130's does fit and that means they are plentiful and fairly inexpensive).  It also needs a very thorough cleaning and adjusting.

But I didn't just buy it on impulse.  I knew it was a project machine and so the question with any somewhat rare machine is where to buy parts.  How much would it cost to purchase all these necessities for a working machine -- preferably original parts?  Well, I found an eBay seller who sold me a huge lot of Adler 189A parts (including the motor, the rear access plate, the hand wheel, the face plate with the cam door, levers, hook, innards, take-up lever, gears, etc., zig-zag and cam assemblies, rods and shafts, etc.) for the princely sum of $50.  So I bought the machine with a pending Best Offer on the parts and had my shorts in a wad for only about 2 hours hoping I could have a complete machine in about a month of studying the service manual.

Cosmetically, I've seen better examples of this machine but nearly every other 189A I've seen has at least some small areas of paint loss.  Since I'm very interested in a complete refurb, a paint-matching trip to the auto parts store is on the agenda not only because I want the machine to look its best but also to keep the existing paint around the dings from flaking.  However, I think the machine looks pretty good for a 'For Parts or Repair' -- what do you think?

Kenmore 158.541

I'm not sure there are rules re. collecting anything including machinery but I've learned over the last few years that down to a certain price point, I can always find the same item for less. All I have to do is wait.

Now, this machine isn't exactly the same as my 158.540 (there are some cosmetic differences) but it appears to be mechanically identical with all the great features a 1960s Kenmore includes: 

• 1.2 amps
• Double needle capable
• Built-in buttonhole drive 
• Reversible plate insert for zig-zag/straight switching
• 5mm width
• Cam assembly
• Automatic bobbin winding
• Interlock light/power 
• Incremented plunger-style pressure control
• All-metal: cast iron body, steel parts
• Aggressive dogs for heavy-duty sewing
• Feed dog drop
• Reverse feed (and timed to match Forward almost exactly)

It has a few small dings but is in great shape, especially the wiring.  Even the case (a vintage '60s Sears pressboard trapezoid) is very decent.  Pretty, isn't it?

The last picture shows an inserted cam -- an E-type cam, to be exact.  Kenmore made cam assemblies in different sizes, different width capabilities, and with different numbers and styles of following arms.  The 541 is a single-arm mechanism that follows the lowest layer of a 2-level flat disc (E) cam.  This means that the stitch design you see on the top of the cam is produced by the layer on the opposite or lower side of the disc.

The 541 and several other models of this era are essentially straight stitch machines until you add cams, including zig-zag stitch, i.e. there is no built-in zig-zag.  It may seem an odd design decision but it makes perfect sense in that so much workhorse sewing is straight.  By limiting zig-zag to a following arm instead of including an internal cam mechanism, manufacturing is somewhat simpler.

These Kenmores are some of my favorites, including the fantastic 158.1503; if you sew a lot of denim, they are an excellent choice.

Singer 503A

I have three machines currently on the bench: a Kenmore 30-stitch made by Janome, a Pfaff 130, and this little number: the Singer 503A.

I've never been too interested in acquiring one of the Rocketeer models, yet I saw one in a local Value Village and stood in front of it for several minutes: Worth the effort or not?  I checked the price tag: $6.99 minus a 20% discount.  Well, here it is finally getting some needed attention.

When I initially brought it in the house, I set it aside for about 2 weeks.  My friend Janet mentioned the Rocketeer in her blog and I became curious: Don't I have one of those?  Why yes, I do.  No attachments were included save a zig-zag foot and the zig-zag cam but it came in a cheapie Singer table and both original knee and foot controllers were included.

I plugged it in and it runs.  In fact, it runs quite well.  It's very fast and has very little vibration, is strong, and makes a pretty stitch.  The zig-zag isn't wide but it's precise.  This would make an excellent primary machine in a sewing studio, especially if lots of denim and twill were on the agenda: 8 layers of Levi's like buttah and I didn't even replace the needle that was on the machine. 

It had and has some issues:

• Filthy.  Not smelly but dusty and splattered with unidentified substances.
• Bobbin winder tire in the process of shredding and shedding.  The machine's interior surface was covered with tire flakes.
• Broken right cover hinge (right, as you face the machine's front).
• Large paint bubble on bed that has broken, revealing the metal beneath and a number of smaller dings where the broken hinge provided a wrestling match with thumbs various and sundry.
• Label glued on the back reading: REPOSSESSED MACHINE.  I considered removing just the RE.  I'm now in the process of trying to remove the whole thing.  The skin underneath my thumbnail is sore.
• Original spool felts are loose, as the double-stick on the pin anchors was attracting every bit of lint within 2 feet, yet the felts wouldn't stay.

The exterior is clean and I've oiled and half-assedly greased it.  The interior is cleaner.   Yeah, I missed a few spots but it's one heck of a lot better than it was.  I've ordered a set of vintage hinges so the top cover will be operating as it should.  The bobbin tire has been replaced but I think it's just a shade too big so I'll be ordering several of the correct size.  The light bulb works.  Tension has been adjusted, top and bottom (and I've always found Singer tensions to be fiddly and tend to vibrate out of adjustment; this one is no exception).

Do I invest in the Singer LBOW touch-up paint kit (over $30) or leave that for the next owner?  (I'm not keeping this one.  I'm just here for the educational experience and life enrichment.  And the refreshments.)  If I were repairing a steady stream of similar Singer machines, it would be well worth the cost but I'm not a Singer fan (although I like this machine much better than I thought I would) and hardly ever see them priced in my bargain basement range.  Hmmm, what to do?

 

  


    

Elna 3 Flat Bed Straight Stitch

I'd like you to meet Smellna, a recent arrival.

This machine wafted into my life, my heart, and my nostrils -- not in that order -- after a long trip in a driving rain storm.  (The rain was driven and I was driving.)  Although not far for a sewing machine, the trip was arduous and thus all the more lengthy.  Ghost Riders on the Storm was perhaps my metaphysical soundtrack that day as I met not only the Man With No Name but the Seller With No Clue.  He was friendly but the hopes of what was to be a 4-machine sale were quickly dashed -- only one machine included the power cord and pedal despite the ad's assurance that all of these machines 'power up and run.'  Ah, well.  My Husqvarna Viking ship will sail into my harbor another day.

Undeterred, he proudly pulled a beat Emdeko case out of his car and placed it on the trunk, rain still pouring.  (I'm soaked right down to my underwear at this point and yes, I was wearing a coat.)  Uncovering a machine whose fragrance no rain or outdoor air could possibly mitigate, raindrops formed rivulets into all port and openings, watering the case's crop of mildew to a bloom I could barely stand on the way home.  I bought it partly out of not wanting to come home empty-handed and partly because the machine intrigued me.  It still does.

The seller purchased it at a Washington State surplus dealer.  Though I'm not certain, this machine was possibly among a fleet of machines used in home economics courses taught in various education institutions (likely discontinued in favor of more useful skills such as analysis of rap lyrics).   

Collectors, take note: this is potentially quite the treasure trove if one knows where to buy.   

That my state's educators would choose such a machine slightly raises my rather low expectations of them: a student being exposed to a useful skill utilizing a tool chosen for its quality and longevity rather than price or insider contract on the public dime?  Be still my olfactory.  (Yes, Smellna stinks.)

The machine is a straight stitch only with reverse and is capable of sewing with a double needle.  With a friction drive rather than via belt or gear from the motor (although a cleated nylon belt connects both the lower and upper drive shafts, thus controlling the hook), this model is essentially a glorified rotary.  True to Elna engineering, it's fast and powerful.  Unfortunately, a friction pulley flattens as does a tire, causing a clunking or whining or pounding or any of the above and Smellna is likely the noisiest domestic machine I've ever run.  

I managed to extract the leftmost spool pin from the cover, as it was rusted/grimed into its Down position.  This took one day of kerosene drops at regular intervals, then pliers over a silicone hot pad and muscle, turning slightly, then pulling straight out.  I polished with Maas and it's now smooth.  

Other issues:

• Needs rewiring from the plug to pedal.  I plugged it in to run it but not for long as this is really not safe.  I'm out of 18g so off to the big box I go.
• Bobbin plate has a loose screw.  (Don't we all?)  Fixing requires unscrewing the entire lower casing -- something I haven't had time to do.  
• Bobbin winder is inoperable.  It has a few parts missing and I'm not certain what they are.  One is a spring.
• I need to pull the motor and clean the brushes of carbon, polish the commutator, and test for SPM.  It's a fast machine but I sense it's not at top speed.

Despite the reek and the questionable provenance, I like this machine very much.  A prime candidate for finishing school, Smellna has a simple charm and power all its own.  Time is all we need.  For just $10, this experience has been a silver lining. 

Anker RZ Matic

I've decided that eBay is a venue that is by and large too expensive for sewing machine purchases.  Shipping charges put many machines beyond my casual (and increasingly rational) addiction and shipping damage is always a concern.  Yet, my tastes have changed.  I acquire the low-priced common machines -- Kenmores, etc. -- mostly via CL and once in a long, long while will purchase a hard-to-find model from eBay if one is available at a price (+ shipping) that's not unreasonable.

Sometimes I even buy a fixer.

Case in point: the Anker RZ Matic zig-zag.  I've been lusting for one of these for a while, having purchased an earlier Free-Westinghouse version.  I've seen them in better shape but with price tags far above my self-imposed limit.  So, when I saw the ad for this one (with 14 watchers), I figured I should probably pounce even though it's missing a slide plate, power cord/pedal, and most of a front decal.  Other than these hopefully surmountable flaws (I see a cord/pedal combination for sale on eBay for more than I paid for this machine -- not going to happen) and despite a few small paint dings, it's actually in pretty decent shape.  A standard Class 15 bobbin was included in its oh-so-common case and the hand wheel moves smoothly, quietly, and as heavily as a high-powered, over-engineered German machine should.

The machine has some very interesting features.  The dual tension assembly is punctuated by the dual retractable pins and the forward-facing hook/race means double-needle sewing is de rigeur.  Decorative stitching?  You bet, all with a Wonder Wheel-like assembly powered by a third pulley off the hand wheel (first the interior motor, second the bobbin winder) and its own thread path with guides shared by a nifty bobbin winding assembly with automatic or manual stop-mechanism (see the small black Bakelite lever below the hand wheel).  The top is reminiscent of a car hood, opening to a hinge that holds the open position until squeezed inward, releasing to the closed position.  The stitch limiters around the width control are a beautifully designed pair of levers with numbered plates extending from the main knob, one each for both directions of the needle bar.  This really is superior to the more typical thumb screws (and likely more expensive to manufacture and install).  The setting release latch in the width lever doubles as a thread guide(!).  Very cool.  The length knob has a more standard cylindrical captive screw.

As a side note, I love the color: a deep sea green with dark green painted logo.  The contrast with the nickel and black is stunning.  Everyone should have at least one green sewing machine, don't you think? 

All in all, I'm pretty happy with it despite not knowing how it runs.  I have a Phoenix with a similar male connector and I will attempt a hook-up later today when I've some more time.  I will append this post as soon as I have more information and have done a bit more cleaning.

I've also acquired a few more cheap paintings and will post a little gallery tour as well.

I hope you're all doing well.

 

Pfaff 229

I recently contacted a CL seller of a machine that uses a power cord/foot pedal I needed for another machine I purchased from GW w/out this necessary part (and has to have the appropriate connecting plug; I haven't tried to bypass the stock connection on a machine to accommodate a foreign cord/pedal -- yet).  After picking up this machine and pedal, I schlepped (Or did I traipse?  I probably gamboled) over to the nearest GW (a different store than the one I mentioned above) and found this for $7.99, after discount:

Sauntering through the furniture section, I spied the table and nudged it.  I instantly knew a heavy machine resided inside and I opened the lid.  I didn't even so much as lift the machine as I recognized the Pfaff paint and shape, I closed the lid, and hauled this baby through the store and to the cashier.  Condition doesn't matter much at this price.

Yes, folks -- this is the behavior of an addict.

It's missing the slide plate and came with no attachments save the zig-zag foot but it runs beautifully and can seriously haul -- this thing is incredibly fast.  The label on the motor has long fallen off (dried glue rather than attached with steel brads) and so I don't know the amperage but I will perform a test with my handy dandy Craftsman mechanical speed gauge and will update.

The thing about these vintage Pfaffs is that they were engineered and manufactured with such tight tolerances that unless they've been oiled and used regularly, they're often found completely seized and stiff.  Not this one.  Getting it home, I found the hand wheel was free and smooth and all the controls work perfectly.  I oiled it completely and it improved to the point that when running at full speed, I was worried I might damage it as it was sewing so quickly and powerfully.  Semi-industrial?  Heck, yes.

The interior cleated nylon belt is in perfect condition.  I just need the slide plate and a bobbin case and I'm good to go.  There are some hairline cracks in the stitch width knob but it seems solid with zero play from the pointer to the base and these small cracks don't extend from the screw hole.  I didn't even have to unstick the feed dog pin.  The lugged exterior belt indicates the machine was serviced within the last few decades; whoever owned this machine didn't use it much, as it's cosmetically excellent and runs so well -- whoever you are, thank you!

Pfaff 360

Today was a stressful but productive day, overall.

I was squeezing work into a bunch of other errands.  (Was it the other way around?)  Some of you may know that I'm looking for a new house, as I'm seriously in need of downsizing (but my sewing machine purchases have sadly kept apace); I have to sell a condo, a Volvo, about 30 sewing machines (at least), some other items, start boxing up/selling/storing/throwing/donating/etc. a bunch of stuff, and on top of it all, I have to take care of my mother who fairly recently suffered a heart attack.  I am my mother's caregiver because the rest of my family will not step in to help.  I love my mom but having her live with me has been a difficult adjustment.

Today I looked at a house.  It was a decent house -- mid-century modern, a good design -- and I liked it but thought it had cheap finishes and would require at least 100K to make it 'nice'.  Adding that to the price of the home and I think I'm better off looking at more expensive houses to begin with; basically, I'm in the process of:

• Finding the sweet spot in the current real estate market, which is very hot right now
• Figuring out what I can afford
• Figuring out what I am willing to spend
• Deciding on which new neighborhoods and communities I would like
• Packing and throwing 
• Thinking about how much house I need vs. how much I would like vs. how much is available
• Doing a lot of driving and stressing
• Refusing to put my mother in a nursing home while wondering about my sanity

In addition to the above, I found a very nice machine, a Pfaff 360:

I love Pfaffs and I've wanted a free arm (360 or, preferably, a 362) so I bought this one.  The seller realized it didn't have a power cord or pedal, so lowered the price to $45.  I think that's reasonable, as it's in excellent shape and I already have the cord/pedal from my 260, my 230, etc.

What's important about these Pfaff Automatic machines is that you have to have the levers in the exact positions to achieve the stitches you want and you have to follow the sequence of lever positioning.  So, you need the handy dandy Pfaff stitch wheel, which I don't have.  (There are full-color downloads and I can run those through a laminating machine, then insert a brass brad in the middle to spin it.  An easy hack.)

These machines are exceptional sewers but one of the best features is the shallowness of the arm itself.  This will likely be my free arm machine in a future sewing atelier with a Kenmore as a back up, as this machine cannot do several stretch utility stitches that are very useful on cuffs, for example.

OK, gotta go look at house listings and swallow hard.  This weekend is a busy one.

Kenmore 158.540

Model 54, where are you?

Bellingham, apparently.  My mom needed to visit with a sick aunt and wanted a chauffeur.  My price?  Take a side trip to purchase a machine, one I've wanted for a couple of years but twice wasn't able to buy, first due to condition and second due to price.

Here it is, paint dings and all:

It was only $35 and I've had some success with touch-up paint on another machine (a Necchi -- stay tuned) so I think I'll try to match the cream paint (oil-based white and bone, mixed with spirits) and see if I can hide some of the spots you see here.  The machine is in great mechanical condition and it came with a full set of E-cams and the buttonholer with the geared plate that fits the buttonhole drive lever in the bobbin area.

These pictures were taken after a long day and right after I cleaned up this machine.  (It was the usual filthy garage machine with a dust bunny the size of Rhode Island.)  I'll take better pictures once I do the touch-ups and get some better lighting. 

Kenmore 158.1813

Here is yet another Kenmore I found at a thrift store.  This is one of the wonderful 1970s machines with a built-in cam stack, cam assembly, and many other features -- a deluxe machine.  It's in very good shape, as is the cabinet.

There's only one problem: it's missing the stitch selector knob that spins within the width dial.  These knobs are common to several Kenmore models.  Logging into eBay, I quickly found one, placed my order, and I will be fixing this machine within the next week or so.

This machine runs beautifully.  Strong, quiet, smooth, makes excellent stitches that are uniform, and the tension is balanced.  Everything you'd want in a domestic machine and all for $10.  Once the $5 knob is added, this will have been another great score that I'll enjoy using.

Bernina 117K

I finally found one.  Here it is:

Barn Pfaff 30

Here is a Pfaff 30 I purchased at Goodwill for $19.99.  Someone asked whether it's from a barn and I replied that I assumed so, as it had straw strewn all over it, mouse droppings, and smelled like, well, a barnyard.  Surprisingly, it powers on and the light works.  It's almost frozen solid and the length lever is hard to move.

I'll be documenting my progress on this one.  It'll take a few days to get it clean and running so if you're interested in seeing it improve, check back!

Well, here it is, the cleaned, running version:

This one was a bitch to clean.  It still needs a new belt and wiring but it's running; that it has some dings and scratches means it'll be perfect for someone who wants a machine in good condition without worrying about damaging one that is near-mint.

The painting behind the machine is one I picked up for a few bucks while perusing craigslist.  It reminded me of a friend back on the East coast years ago, someone I really like.